Post by caspa on Nov 4, 2021 23:55:59 GMT
Hi popcorn,
Abandoning the ET is probably a bit harsh. The point I was trying to make is that, if anything, the ET "balances" image lightness, not exposure, when I said that for a set image lightness, not exposure, there is a reciprocal relationship between any 2 of aperture, shutter speed and ISO. You shouldn't need a triangle or any other shape to be able to understand that.
To maximise image quality, at least by minimising visible noise, it is better to let the exposure you set drive the ISO setting the camera sets rather than the ISO you set drive the exposure the camera sets.
Exposure is how much light falls on the film/sensor per unit area. With film, you controlled how dark/light an image looks when you print the negative. With digital you control the final image lightness when you process the raw file. You cannot adjust the exposure in post processing, only how light or dark the image will look.
The "exposure" sliders in image editing apps are more like an ISO adjustment, not an exposure adjustment, because they just multiply/amplify the digital data in a similar way to the way ISO does in camera.
There is no such thing as "processed exposure" as you asked.
Do not confuse image lightness and exposure which are two different things. For a set/given exposure you can adjust the image lightness to whatever you like.
Just like with film where for a given exposure you controlled how light or dark the print looked during printing, with digital for a given exposure you control how light or dark the image looks when you process the raw file.
With your BIF situation, since blown skies is acceptable then setting the widest aperture that gives you sufficient DOF and the slowest shutter speed that you can hand-hold at and freeze motion is the best you can do to minimise visible noise in the shadows of the birds.
In my first post in this thread I said -
"So I typically set the widest aperture (smallest f-number) that will give the DOF I want and the slowest shutter speed I can hand-hold at for the focal length I am using and freezes any movement without clipping important highlights."
From your description, the sky is not an important highlight.
You then adjust the final image lightness to how you like in post processing knowing that you have minimised the visible noise by having maximised the exposure in-camera within your DOF and motion blur constraints.
Abandoning the ET is probably a bit harsh. The point I was trying to make is that, if anything, the ET "balances" image lightness, not exposure, when I said that for a set image lightness, not exposure, there is a reciprocal relationship between any 2 of aperture, shutter speed and ISO. You shouldn't need a triangle or any other shape to be able to understand that.
To maximise image quality, at least by minimising visible noise, it is better to let the exposure you set drive the ISO setting the camera sets rather than the ISO you set drive the exposure the camera sets.
Exposure is how much light falls on the film/sensor per unit area. With film, you controlled how dark/light an image looks when you print the negative. With digital you control the final image lightness when you process the raw file. You cannot adjust the exposure in post processing, only how light or dark the image will look.
The "exposure" sliders in image editing apps are more like an ISO adjustment, not an exposure adjustment, because they just multiply/amplify the digital data in a similar way to the way ISO does in camera.
There is no such thing as "processed exposure" as you asked.
Do not confuse image lightness and exposure which are two different things. For a set/given exposure you can adjust the image lightness to whatever you like.
Just like with film where for a given exposure you controlled how light or dark the print looked during printing, with digital for a given exposure you control how light or dark the image looks when you process the raw file.
With your BIF situation, since blown skies is acceptable then setting the widest aperture that gives you sufficient DOF and the slowest shutter speed that you can hand-hold at and freeze motion is the best you can do to minimise visible noise in the shadows of the birds.
In my first post in this thread I said -
"So I typically set the widest aperture (smallest f-number) that will give the DOF I want and the slowest shutter speed I can hand-hold at for the focal length I am using and freezes any movement without clipping important highlights."
From your description, the sky is not an important highlight.
You then adjust the final image lightness to how you like in post processing knowing that you have minimised the visible noise by having maximised the exposure in-camera within your DOF and motion blur constraints.