Post by popcorn on Nov 9, 2021 10:20:30 GMT
Hi,
I attach a jpg of an image I am trying to edit.
My intention was to cut out all the background.
I wanted to take photographs of owl feathers floating to earth.
I need a large DOF because the path of the feather was erratic and I needed detail focus over a wide area.
The subject was moving to I needed a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.
Noise would be a problem so I needed a low ISO.
It had to be indoors because the slightest breeze deviated the feather,
To establish a constant dropping point I attached a button to a thread and hung it from the ceiling, so that it hund directly above the point that I hoped to freeze the feather.
I was using a Macro prime lens so I set up my camera far enough from the thread to try and get as much of the frame filled with the falling feather, while retaining reaction room.
I ended about 1,8m away. The background was the closed heavy draped curtains about 3m behind the thread.
I set up a flash at right angles to my field of view, about 1m from the thread. The flash was set to manual at full power.
I synced the flash to the camera shutter release using a radio trigger.
I set up my camera at 1/250th, f=22 ISO 100. Fully Manual. I was trying to cut out all ambient light and use the duration of the flash as my exposure speed.
To pre-focus, I had my son hold the feather just below the button on the tread and took a photograph.
Trying to synchronise the shutter release with the moment the feather passed through the field of view took a little practice.
I was able to get a few acceptable images.
When it came to processing I found that I liked the the image of my son's hand holding the feather more than the others.
This the image attached.
I have processed the image in ACR leaving the WB as shot.
I then adjusted the Colour in Elements 2018 Editor, using the Auto adjusted levels method.
Unfortunately, in the clour corrected image there are bands of light visible which seem to correlate with the folds in the background curtains.
Some light from the flash must have bounced off the walls and ceiling.
I need to find some way of removing these.
I can't adjust the shadows without changing the Colour balance ( or can I ? )
I have tried, unsuccessfully, to select the subject detail so as to be able to adjust only the background to obtain a perfect Black.
Any help in removing the banding will be appreciated.
Has any research been done on which of the many methods of correcting the colour balance, without the use of a grey card, provides the most realistic interpretation.
I would like to use the method available in photoshop where, the black & white points are found, and marked on the image, using the Threshold layer.
You then determine the 50% grey point by adding a blank layer filled with 50% grey and changing the "Blend Mode" to "Difference".
This point is also automatically numbered by Photoshop.
In photoshop, each point in numbered and retained on the background layer, so they can all be located simultaneously.
These can be transferred to a Layers panel by using the correct colour picker for each point.
This appears to me to be the most reliable because you determine all three settings.
A similar method is available in Elements, using the guide grid to mark the spot.
Unfortunately this will only work to establish either Black, White or 50% grey, as only one set of guide lines are available.
There does not appear to be any method of retaining and numbering the points in Elements.
I attach a jpg of an image I am trying to edit.
My intention was to cut out all the background.
I wanted to take photographs of owl feathers floating to earth.
I need a large DOF because the path of the feather was erratic and I needed detail focus over a wide area.
The subject was moving to I needed a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.
Noise would be a problem so I needed a low ISO.
It had to be indoors because the slightest breeze deviated the feather,
To establish a constant dropping point I attached a button to a thread and hung it from the ceiling, so that it hund directly above the point that I hoped to freeze the feather.
I was using a Macro prime lens so I set up my camera far enough from the thread to try and get as much of the frame filled with the falling feather, while retaining reaction room.
I ended about 1,8m away. The background was the closed heavy draped curtains about 3m behind the thread.
I set up a flash at right angles to my field of view, about 1m from the thread. The flash was set to manual at full power.
I synced the flash to the camera shutter release using a radio trigger.
I set up my camera at 1/250th, f=22 ISO 100. Fully Manual. I was trying to cut out all ambient light and use the duration of the flash as my exposure speed.
To pre-focus, I had my son hold the feather just below the button on the tread and took a photograph.
Trying to synchronise the shutter release with the moment the feather passed through the field of view took a little practice.
I was able to get a few acceptable images.
When it came to processing I found that I liked the the image of my son's hand holding the feather more than the others.
This the image attached.
I have processed the image in ACR leaving the WB as shot.
I then adjusted the Colour in Elements 2018 Editor, using the Auto adjusted levels method.
Unfortunately, in the clour corrected image there are bands of light visible which seem to correlate with the folds in the background curtains.
Some light from the flash must have bounced off the walls and ceiling.
I need to find some way of removing these.
I can't adjust the shadows without changing the Colour balance ( or can I ? )
I have tried, unsuccessfully, to select the subject detail so as to be able to adjust only the background to obtain a perfect Black.
Any help in removing the banding will be appreciated.
Has any research been done on which of the many methods of correcting the colour balance, without the use of a grey card, provides the most realistic interpretation.
I would like to use the method available in photoshop where, the black & white points are found, and marked on the image, using the Threshold layer.
You then determine the 50% grey point by adding a blank layer filled with 50% grey and changing the "Blend Mode" to "Difference".
This point is also automatically numbered by Photoshop.
In photoshop, each point in numbered and retained on the background layer, so they can all be located simultaneously.
These can be transferred to a Layers panel by using the correct colour picker for each point.
This appears to me to be the most reliable because you determine all three settings.
A similar method is available in Elements, using the guide grid to mark the spot.
Unfortunately this will only work to establish either Black, White or 50% grey, as only one set of guide lines are available.
There does not appear to be any method of retaining and numbering the points in Elements.